We have just replaced a Volvo MD11C with a 3 cylinder Beta 28: B-28 HE, 9BA485.
The boat is in the water and engine is running great. But the fuel system was cobbled together to get here. So...
What is the best fuel filter to install? Fuel consumption curves are available, but the fuel pump moves more volume than the engine burns. And that number is hard to find. It seems that the fuel filter system for a long-distance cruising boat should be sized to at least the amount of fuel running through the fuel pump per hour, not just burned by the engine per hour. That is: Shouldn't the system filter all the fuel running through the filters and pumps and returned to the tank, not just the fuel burned in the engine?
Just for a moment forget how little fuel the engine actually uses. You need a filter that is easy to service in a hurry and one that you can get replacement elements for without breaking the bank. I suggest the Racor 500 FG. Although this unit costs a bit more than the smaller units, the replaceable elements are very reasonably priced (currently at $10 per element here in the US) and are almost universally available. If you are going to the Caribbean or crossing the Pacific, I suggest that you buy a case of the elements to keep on the boat.
Mount the filter at about the same height as the engine if at all possible and fit a shut off valve to the intake side of the filter. If you do have to replace the element in a hurry, you shut of the valve which will stop the fuel draining back to the tank, unscrew the T handle and lift off the top cover, lift out the old element and fit the new one from the top. Re-fit the cover and T handle and re-open the valve. Then start the engine. It wont be necessary to bleed the fuel system as no air was introduced into the system.
The smaller filters have an expensive metal canister (about $30) replacement filter and require a complete fuel system bleeding before the engine will work reliably.
